If you are looking for a piece of jewellery that is compatible with your active life style, then the bezel setting may be perfect for you. Otherwise known as a ‘collet setting’ or a ‘rub over setting’, this technique embeds the gemstone into the piece. It is perhaps the safest way of setting a stone, as your diamond or gemstone will be secured nicely, fitted into a small metal cup. The rim of the cup holds the gemstone in place; it is then soldered to the rest of the piece.
Types of Bezel Settings
When considering this setting you can opt for one of two styles: the full bezel and the half bezel. In the full bezel setting, the entire rim of the gemstone is covered by the lip of the metal setting. Being fully encircled, the featured gemstone would always be extremely secure in a full bezel setting. Some however, may express the concern that a lot less of the stone would actually be visible in the piece. The half bezel setting on the other hand, only covers a part of the stone; normally around two quarters of the circumference at either side. This type of setting is appealing as it still ensures your stone is safe and secure, but you can also see a large proportion of the dazzling gem.
Why Choose a Bezel Setting
There are many pros to this sleek and stylish setting. Perhaps the most important one is security. Within this setting, your beloved gemstone will not budge! It is safely tucked into the piece and is far less like to face damage than gems in other settings (claw for example). As the gemstone is less exposed, it is relatively safe from scratching, chipping or any other form of damage. For this reason, bezel settings are often chosen for softer stones (those ranking 7 or less on the Mohs’ scale), such as opals.
As well as preventing future damage, this setting also accounts for any chips or nips the stone might already have. Any damage to the sides of the stone will be nicely concealed within a bezel setting, creating the illusion of a perfect gem.
Finally, if you plan to wear your jewellery on a daily basis, the bezel setting accommodates an active lifestyle. It is far less likely to get caught on clothes or hair- yet another worry that you needn’t consider with this setting!
Of course, aesthetics are of the utmost importance too. The bezel setting lends itself nicely to more modern jewellery. It is neat, sleek and sophisticated, paired wonderfully with white gold and diamonds.
As with any style, there are also a few concerns when it comes to bezel settings. The number one worry that people have when looking to buy is about a stones authenticity. As well as securing the stone, this setting tends to hide a large majority of it- obscuring potential inclusions. This could of course be a bonus. Just be sure to go to a reputable dealer who is very clear on exactly what quality of stone you’re getting. It is very difficult for instance, to check whether a stone is a doublet as you won’t be able to see it from the side. Take our beautiful diamond and ruby colour doublet cluster ring for example (pictured right). It is a stunning piece, and clearly advertised as a doublet stone. However, many people may mistake such a stone for a ruby, as its setting makes checking this very difficult. Again, it all comes down to having complete clarity and confidence when you choose to buy.
Another potential drawback when it comes to bezel set diamonds is their refraction. As the setting covers a lot of the stone, light may not be able to get in and shine through some areas, potentially lessening its sparkle.
Cleaning Bezel Set Items
Cleaning can be a bit tricky when it comes to the bezel setting. If dirt happens to get trapped beneath the setting, or between the bezel and the gemstone, do not attempt to get it out with a sharp instrument! Instead, use warm soapy water and a soft brush or cloth. A great way to thoroughly clean these items is by using an ultrasonic machine. We would recommend taking you piece of jewellery to get a professional clean and check-up at least once a year. This is a service that we offer our customers here at AC Silver.
So there we have it; a sleek and secure look, for those with a taste for the modern and who are always on the go. If you think the bezel setting may be perfect for you, feel free to browse our carefully curated selection!
Delilah Kealy-Roberts – Sales and Digital Assistant
Delilah joined the AC Silver team as a Sales & Digital Assistant in 2017 after completing her degree in English Literature at Leeds University. Delilah possesses a passion for jewellery and antiquities combined with an interest in blogging and social media.