Antique Signet Rings

Traditionally, signet rings were one of the few pieces of jewellery worn exclusively by men. Signet rings are largely plain bands, with one flat surface on the exterior side of the ring. This surface is often ornamented with intaglio (a term encompassing incising or engraving), a family coat of arms, or a personal signature/ initials.

Engraving is often carried out on signet rings, either directly onto the metal, or gemstone which will be set into the ring. Preferred gemstones are carnelian, sardonyx, and onyx. Theses stones are popular, as within their origins signet rings also served as dual wax seals, these gemstones are known for their anti-adhesive qualities.

In cultures such as Ancient Rome and Egypt, people of importance wore signet rings featuring their own personal insignia. When signing a letter or affixing a seal, the wearer would pour wax onto a document, then press their ring into the wax.

Signet rings have for some time been exclusively worn by men. In modern society however, signet rings are now made specifically for women.

The passing down of a signet ring is frequently done upon the death of the wearer. It is also popular for a grandfather to pass such a ring to his grandson to celebrate a significant birthday such as 18th or 21st birthday.

Traditionally men wear signet rings on the little finger of their left hand (the pinkie), and alongside their wedding ring.

There are no set rules for women wearing signet rings. Many women wear the ring on their index finger, and as a statement piece of jewellery. Traditionalists and those looking to imitate classic styles will always wear their signet ring on one of their little fingers.

Signet rings have a particular standing within royal families and landed gentry. Prince Charles is often photographed wearing his; he abides to tradition and wears it on the pinky of his left hand, behind which he wears his wedding band, as is the standard for British aristocracy. His ring depicts the emblem of the prince of Wales: a fleur-de-lis. Princess Anne is another who flaunts a noble ring, as does Camilla (on occasion).

The tradition of the signet ring has continued into the current generation of royals: when Kate Middleton married William, it was decided that her family, namely Michael Middleton â€" her father â€" would be granted their own coat of arms. The Middleton coat of arms depicts three acorns, a tribute to the oak-tree-lavished Berkshire countryside where the family live. As is tradition, the coat of arms was fashioned onto signet rings which the whole family is now entitled to wear. Kate, along with her siblings Pippa and James, are sporadically seen sporting their family ring.

Yes, whilst often crafted in plain metal, a signet ring can include a gemstone to the anterior surface. Commonly utilised gemstones included lapis lazuli, carnelian, bloodstone, agate, and sardonyx. Artisans would carve the wearer's intaglio or crest into these stones in reverse, ensuring that when the ring was pressed into heated wax, the resulting seal appeared correctly oriented.

These durable gemstones were selected for their anti-adhesive characteristics, making them resistant to damage or entanglement with hot wax during the sealing of documents. Today, modern signet rings continue to incorporate these gemstones regardless of the absence of a seal design. This choice is attributed to the gemstones' robustness and serves as a nod to the historical significance of the jewellery.