Art Deco Jewellery

Art Deco jewellery is easily identified by its geometric patterns using gems in complementary colours. The term Art Deco is actually a shortened form of the name of an event held in Paris in 1925, named 'Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes' (International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts).

Art Deco is considered one of the most popular antique jewellery styles of all time, often made with white metals like white gold and platinum. The style is largely made up of old European cut, antique cushion cut, transitional cut and/or Asscher cut diamonds, creating a mix of angular and round shapes to follow the appropriate aesthetic.

One of the most stand-out features of the jewellery is its complex geometric designs that are usually symmetrical. The gemstones are often tightly packed against one another, giving the jewellery a unique and complex look. A distinctive feature of Art Deco jewellery is its use of filigree. Back in the 1920s, most rings were produced using wax molds which resulted in almost perfect filigree designs compared to the softer filigree designs we see today. Moreover, most of the filigree was made with either 10k or 18k white gold.

The jewellery made in the Art Deco period tended to be made from very strong metals up until the Second World War, when metals like platinum especially were redirected to help the war effort as much as possible.

Art Deco jewellery found its inspiration in various artistic movements: fauvism, cubism and an early wake of the Vienna Secessionists. The simple, linear expressions were adopted by all trend makers of the times, including couturiers such as Chanel. Significant inspiration also came from further away in the world; the Russian ballets and a wave of Orientalism provided shoots from which Art Deco continued to flourish.

The shapes incorporated into the iconic style were uncluttered, architectural. Lines were geometric and symmetrical and pieces of jewellery were treated like sculptures. Some jewellers such as Janesich, Lacloche, Van Cleef and Arpels and of course Cartier created links between Europe and the West using shapes and colours inspired by exotic cultures.

During the Art Deco era, jewellery designers were forward-thinking visionaries, embracing the modern technological advancements of their time to craft breathtaking pieces that remain iconic today. Explore some of the most influential and renowned jewellery designers of the Art Deco period in our blog post.